Lawn Care Services

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Lawn Care

Creating a beautiful lawn is an art and services provided from professionals include mowing, edging and strimming. Whether you require the service on a weekly, fortnightly of monthly basis, professionals can guarantee a top-notch finish all year round.

For those with large gardens or grass areas, hiring a professional can be even more necessary. Commercial uses for a professional include schools andfootball pitches and stripes can even be created for the aesthetic finish.

Lawn services include:

  • Mowing lawns

  • Lawn edging

  • Controlling weeds

  • Pest control

  • Grass seeding

  • Turfing

 

If you are looking to improve your lawn due to problems with your lawn these are typical problems that professionals deal with:

  • Moss - Lawns can be affected by various issues including moss
  • Diseases and pests - These affect the health and colour of the lawn.
  • Weak grass - Aeration, scarification, overseeding and fertilisation improve weak grass.
  • Brown patches - Lawn improvement is not instant and it will take time for the results to show.

How to get rid of moss in lawn?

Is your lawn affect by the thick patches of moss? Moss is an opportunistic plant with shallow root which will grow anywhere your grass is not thick enough to override it. This is usually a sign that your lawn needs more care extending beyond the ordinary removal of offending plants. Fortunately, it’s not that difficult to have the moss on your lawn removed. However, if you lack the confidence to pull this off, then we’d advise you call in a professional who can guarantee the best results the first time. In this post, we’re going to take your through the process involved in getting rid of moss in lawn. Let’s take a look!

 

  • Chemical method. This involves getting a chemical herbicide that targets moss in your local garden store. Several of such products are iron-based meaning they’ll not only kill the moss but also feed your lawn. It’s important to get a moss-specific herbicide as products for other weeds may not work on moss and may even damage your turf. The best time to make the herbicide application is at the peak of the moss growing season which is usually spring and early fall.
  • Organic method. If you would rather avoid the use of herbicide in your yard, you can simply mix baking soda or gentle dish soap with lukewarm water which is an effective DIY moss killer. If you prefer soap, simply mix two to four ounces with two gallons of lukewarm water. While for baking soda, mix a small box of baking soda two gallons of water. The 2 gallons of water should be able to cover about 1000 square feet of lawn covered with moss. You can make use of a garden sprayer to apply a heavy coating of the DIY herbicide to the moss.

 

 

How much does lawn treatment services cost?

The importance of having your lawn treated on a regular basis simply cannot be overemphasized. For a healthy and nice looking lawn, this is an activity you simply wouldn’t want to overlook. Here, you have two options, either you do it yourself or call in a professional for help - with the latter being strongly recommended. So, if you’re thinking of hiring a reputable lawn treatment services for your yard, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll cost to have this done. In this post, we’re going to give you a good insight into the lawn treatment services pricing world to help you make informed decisions moving forward. Let’s take a look!

 

Firstly, it must be stated that the cost of lawn treatment services is influenced by a number of factors. These factors include the type of treatment your lawn needs as well as the size of your lawn. However, in general the average cost of a lawn treatment is within the range of £45 to £60. Furthermore, there are a number of lawn treatments which can help enhance their appearance, health as well as durability depending on what is needed. For a basic lawn treatment, you can expect to incur within the range of £10 to £20 for a small lawn of about 50m2 in size on the average. Meanwhile for larger lawns that are more time consuming and labour intensive, you can expect to incur within the range of £112 to £2,225 on the average. However, you should have it in mind that factors such as severity of the issue in question, your location in the UK, the lawn treatment service provider and more will all play a part in the final cost.

How much to returf a lawn?

Need a new lawn? Well, you’d also probably want to know just how much this would cost. To determine this, there are a number of variables you’d have to put into consideration.

Firstly, you need to determine how big the area to be re-turfed is. For instance, if your lawn is an exact square of 10 x 10m, then a 100m2 turf will be required. However, in reality, most gardens are oddly shaped and you’ll also want to include a couple of extra metres of turf to take care of possible mismeasurements, cutting mistakes and more. In the event whereby your garden is particularly difficult to measure, you’ll be better off to over estimate the quantities than to under estimate.

Secondly, lawn turf prices will make a huge difference. Generally, you can expect to incur anywhere between the range of £2.40 to £6.90 per m2. In other words, you’ll pay between £240 to £690 for a turf size of 100m2. The difference in the cost is based on the grass composition which will be determined by your requirements. For gardens with rough and tumble kids, energetic pets and sporty families, a hardwearing turf would be a great choice. However, if you want a great looking lawn, a more luxurious composition would be required. A grass of top quality will be a blend of fescue grass, rye grass and meadow grass. If you wish to get a meadow turf which features natural wild seed, you can expect to incur up to £25 per m2.

Another factor that contributes to the cost of re-turfing a lawn will also be the location of your property. Home owners in London or other high demand areas will typically pay more to have their lawn re-turfed than the other areas.

 

 

It is possible to treat your lawn yourself, however professional packages are not expensive and offer peace of mind. Companies offer lawn treatment service costs on a monthly, annual and one-off basis.

    Average Lawn Care cost

    The regular cost of Garden maintenance and upkeep is £1,168 in your area. Costs differ based upon the materials and the company hired. The upper price range can be as high as £2,225. The material costs are commonly about £40.

    Average price per Lawn Care job in 2024

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    £112

    Avg. price

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    £1,168

    Avg. price high

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    £2,225

    £2400

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    Prices based on actual Lawn Care costs for your area, as reported by local Quotatis members.

    Lawn Care installation cost in your area 2024

    Labour cost £90
    Material cost £40
    Waste removal £20
    Time frame: 1 day

    Advantages for Lawn Care

    • Professionals can identify what is required for your lawn
    • They have access to professional equipment and products
    • Lawn will be more healthy

    Disadvantages for Lawn Care

    • Costs more than doing it yourself
    • Typically a few visits are needed

    Lawn Care FAQs

    How to get rid of mushrooms in lawn?

    When it comes to landscaping issues, lawn mushrooms are a very common occurrence. If you’re one of the several home and property owners who simply loves to have a great looking grass, finding mushrooms in your lawn can be a truly frustrating experience. However, with the right skills and knowledge the problem of mushroom growing in lawns can be resolved. If you don’t have the confidence required to carry out this task, then we’d recommend you call in a professional landscaper for help in order to avoid costly errors and unnecessary expenses. In this post, we’re going to put you through the processes involved in lawn mushroom removal.

    First and foremost, let’s consider why mushrooms grow on lawns. To determine why mushrooms are growing on your lawn, simply examine the state of your lawn. Lawn mushrooms thrive in damp, shaded and organic waste rich environments. Figure out if you have drainage problems with supports the mushroom challenge, organic waste to be removed or perhaps you have areas on your yard that happens to be very shady.

    In order to get rid of mushroom in your lawn, you’ll have to resolve your yard problems. If your lawn is very wet, try to find out if there are things you can do to minimize the moisture. You can reduce the decaying organic materials in your yard by raking your grass clippings, replacing existing mulch or detaching your lawn. If your yard happens to be quite shady, check if some targeted pruning can help to enable the access of more light to your yard. Also, you can apply a fungicide to eliminate the existing lawn mushrooms.

    How to lay a lawn?

    Laying a lawn is a task that’s best left to the professionals especially if you don’t know what you’re doing. However, if you can follow a simple logical process, you’ll save yourself a lot of headache – simply start from the edge and work inwards. If you’re looking to lay your lawn by yourself, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to consider the processes involved in lawn installation in order to ensure your project turns out a success. Let’s take a look!

     

    Firstly, the tools you’re going to need to lay your lawn includes the following – sturdy boots, gardening gloves (should be thick), wheel barrow, garden fork or rotovator, landscaping rake, laying boards, knife or edge trimmer, hosepipe and broom.

    1. Start from the outside edge. Install the initial strips horizontally overlapping the boundary a bit (trim the back once done). Press down carefully to make sure there’s a good contact with the soil (make sure not to squash the lawn).
    2. Proceed to lay the adjacent pieces till the first row of the lawn along the entire edge is completed.
    3. Continue with the next row. If there’s a need to stand on the laid turf, simply make use of a plank so as to avoid squashing or denting the turf. It’s important to ensure the successive rows are staggered to prevent the short edges from lining up.
    4. Proceed by butting and pushing the edges to create a tight joint (make sure the turf is not stretched).
    5. Use a wood saw or sharp serrated knife to trim any untidy edges. Remember to make use of a plank to ensure you do not walk directly on the turf.
    6. Water the newly installed turf adequately to ensure the water penetrates the soil. However, do not turn it into a mud bath.
    How do I aerate my lawn?

    Aeration, like scarification, is another vital step to keeping your lawn looking healthy and vibrant. It involves making small holes in the soil to allow air, water and nutrients to get into the grass roots, helping them to grow deeply, and produce a much stronger lawn. It also helps to relieve compaction from the soil, which stops nutrients and air from circulating. But how do you aerate your lawn?

    Before you start to aerate your lawn, it’s a good idea to scarify it first to get rid of any moss, dead grass and thatch. This involves vigorously raking your lawn to get all the organic matter up, then transferring it to your compost heap or disposing of it. Light scarification is best in the spring but you can heavily scarify it in the autumn.

    If you’ve got a small lawn, you can use a hand-held hollow tine aerator or even a normal garden fork. Dig deep into your lawn’s surface with the fork, or push the aerator into the ground which will pull plugs, or cores, of soil out of the ground to create air holes. You can let the cores dry and then go over them with a lawn mower or rake to spread them evenly across your lawn. This will recycle all the nutrients in those parts of the soil and stimulate bacterial activity to break down unwanted thatch. Don’t leave them, because they will make your lawn look bumpy over time.

    If you’ve got a larger lawn, you might find it easier to see if you can hire a petrol aerator. But there are also rolling aerators that have spikes on a cylinder and you just push along, or even aerator sandals that you can wear and just go to town on your grass!

    How do I get rid of moss, mushrooms and weeds in my lawn?

    Moss, mushrooms and weeds are all problems that many homeowners face on their lawns. Luckily, with a bit of maintenance, there are ways you can get rid of these unwanted organisms and prevent them from coming back. Getting rid of moss A simple way to remove moss from your lawn is by scarification. This basically means that you vigorously rake your lawn, but only do this in the autumn when the grass is actively growing and it’s not too hot, cold or dry. However, you can also use specific weedkillers to control moss on your lawn, and most of these should be applied when the moss is actively growing. Apply in fine weather by hand or with a push-along spreader, making sure not to apply too much as you could kill off the grass too. Check the instructions, as some will require watering after 48 hours if it’s not rained. Then, get into a scarification routine to help prevent moss growth. Removing mushrooms from your lawn If you’ve got mushrooms in your lawn, it usually means that your lawn is damp and shaded, so it never dries out, and is organic waste-rich. There could be a drainage problem with your lawn that is encouraging mushroom growth, so it’s important to investigate why the mushrooms are growing to prevent them from returning once you’ve removed them. To get rid of mushrooms in your lawn, make sure you scarify your lawn and get rid of all the moss, thatch and dead grass that comes up. If you leave it, this is heaven for mushrooms to grow in. If your lawn is shaded, try to prune and thin surrounding trees to offer it more light. If you do all of these things, it will prevent mushrooms from growing in the future, and then it might be worth using a fungicide to get rid of the mushrooms that are there. But if you just do this step, it’s likely the mushrooms will just come back. How to get rid of weeds To get rid of weeds from your lawn, you can use selective weedkillers that will just kill the weeds and leave your grass alone. But if you’d rather not use weedkiller, you can get rid of weeds from your lawn manually. For large, deep-rooted weeds like dandelions or plantains, use a trowel to lever them out, ensuring that you get the whole plant including its roots. Then use compost to fill the hole it leaves behind, pushing it deeply into the hole. Sprinkle with fresh grass seed, cover with extra compost and water. Make sure you keep the area damp until the seed has germinated. To prevent moss, mushrooms or weeds from returning, the best things to do are:

    • Scarify your lawn in the autumn, and lightly in the spring if necessary
    • Seed your lawn in the autumn if you need to
    • Try to keep trees trimmed and pruned as much as possible to reduce shade
    • Use a pre-emergent weedkiller in the spring to catch them before they grow and handpick any that come through
    • Mow your lawn regularly in the spring and summer, being careful not to remove more than a third of grass at a time, then before winter give it one last mow and a fertilisation treatment

    How can I tell if my lawn has diseases or pests?

    With summer comes a lot of lawn challenges - from sod webworms, chinch bugs, nutsedge to drought stress, diseases and lots more. A lot of people find it hard to tell what’s happening to their lawn and probably assume it to be as a result of the summer stress and will definitely turn green again once the fall rolls in. This may be right in certain situations, but if you have fungi eating deep into your lawn, the green may not return. So, how exactly do you figure out if your lawn has diseases or pests? In this post, we’re going to provide you with a good insight into this to help you take the necessary treatment steps as soon as possible.

    • Fungal structures. Fungi structures are not usually the easiest to spot as they vary in shape, colour and appearance. Fortunately, most fungi that appears on lawns will possess some type of structure which can be spotted when moisture is present. Once the night time dew sets in, you’ll be able to identify these strange growths in your lawn.
    • Matted or Collapsed Areas. There is some sort of diseases that will make grass plant to wilt in little time. This, combined with fungi structures will make the grass look to have been matted in some areas.
    • Discoloured or oily areas. Some areas are likely to show symptoms more than the others. While the unaffected turf may remain in its normal state, areas that are nearby may vary in colour due to the damage to the leaf tissue.
    • Lesions or spots on leaves. Do you notice a certain damage pattern on the leaf blades of the grass plants? If yes, then your lawn is probably infected with a disease. Some of these spots may vary in size and colour.
    When is the best time to start a lawn renovation?

    First and foremost, to save your time and money when it comes to lawn renovation, there’s a huge need to figure out why the lawn isn’t doing well in the first place. A lot of times, when changes are made to the basic lawn care practices, cultural practices or site conditions, any need for a renovation would be thrown out the window as the lawn would be given a new life with good health and vigour. However, if you feel renovation is the best option for your lawn, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to consider the best time to start a lawn renovation to help put you on the right path. Let’s take a look!

    There are two times during the year that are most suitable for lawn renovation. Firstly, the best time for renovation of a lawn is usually from mid-August to mid-September. Secondly, another great time to achieve this goal is normally during early spring as the lawn is starting to turn green and grow.

    So, when do you consider lawn renovation?

    • When the quality of the lawn is simply poor and unacceptable.
    • During the introduction of lower maintenance turf varieties into an existing lawn.
    • When 30% to 50% of the lawn is dead or is experiencing sparse growth which may be due to several factors like drought and heat, low soil fertility, insect damage, moderate soil compaction and more.
    • When the lawn is soft and spongy will walking across. Plus, if it also responds terribly to the application of fertilizer and water.
    • When grassy weeds or broad-leaved weeds covers about 30 to 40 percent of the lawn area with insufficient turf cover to fill in the bare areas once the weed removal is done.
    When should I scarify my lawn?

    Scarification is the name given to the process where you remove excess thatch and moss from your lawn to encourage it to grow and look healthy. Although it sounds difficult, it’s actually pretty easy – simply grab a sturdy rake and apply moderate pressure to rake out moss, thatch and dead grass. Then collect it up and add to your compost heap if you have one. You can also use a petrol or electric rake, but you just want to tease out the moss and thatch. Don’t be tempted to go deep into the grass, as this could damage your lawn. So when should you scarify your lawn? The experts say that the best time is in the autumn, when the grass is actively growing and it’s not too hot, cold or dry. Most of summer’s weed seeds will have gone, so you won’t encourage weeds to grow in the raked-up soil. This soil also makes an ideal seed bed for over seeding with new grass seed, so that’s why you don’t want to get weeds in there as well. However, you may also carry out light scarification in the spring – usually around April. Make sure you don’t go too far though – as you will end up with a rather disfigured lawn if you scarify too heavily and the dryness of summer stops the lawn from recovering. It’s also best to scarify your lawn in the spring if the following apply:

    • If you couldn’t do it the previous autumn – if you keep putting it off, you might end up with extreme moss and weed growth
    • If your lawn is shaded – these areas will thin over winter and start to thicken from spring onwards, so if you scarify in the autumn you’ll make your lawn even thinner.
    • If your lawn is under trees – pair the shade from the trees with the fall of leaves in the autumn and your grass won’t be healthy, but in the spring the trees are bare, allowing lots of light onto your lawn to help it grow.
    How to level a sloping lawn?

    Uneven lawn? Well, for an outdoor space which looks great and serves its purpose throughout the year, there’s a need to learn how to level your garden. While its best left for a professional to handle, there are also some simple steps you can follow to ensure your DIY task turns out a success whether you’re preparing to lay a patio or deck, landscaping the whole space or tackling a lumpy lawn. A level ground comes with a bunch of benefits which includes maximizing the functions of your yard, helping with drainage while also enhancing your property’s curb appeal. Good news is, you can level your sloping lawn by hand. Want to know how? In this post, we’re going to take you through the processes involved in levelling an uneven lawn. Let’s take a look!

    You can simply level your lawn using your hand if you aim to make your lawn a more even surface or to install a patio or deck. If your goal is only to make the lawn more even, you should have it in mind that, even though lumps and bumps aren’t always pleasing for most people, it can actually create a good drainage for your home.

    Top dressing is the solution for depressions that are about 2cm to 3cm deep. To resolve this, simply get a top dressing mixture or make yours using two parts of sand and topsoil and a single part of compost. Use this to fill out the depression evenly and make compact using a rake or your feet, then water. Leave this for two days before applying grass seed alongside a thin layer of topsoil, then water as needed.

    If you have a deeper depression, simply dig out to around 4cm to 5cm and remove any lumps of soil or stones. Once done, proceed to top dressing as explained above and grass seed to fill out the bald spot.

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    I need part of a beech hedge removed in order to gain access to my garden and then replaced

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    14 Mar

    Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

    Chippenham - SN15

    Enquiry from: Karen C

    Start Date: Immediate

    Large patio area requires cleaning

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    14 Mar

    Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

    Bristol - BS34

    Enquiry from: Rebecca C

    Start Date: Immediate

    Elderly person requires a small front and back garden grass cut once a month. Thank you

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    14 Mar

    Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

    Tadcaster - LS24

    Enquiry from: Thomas B

    Start Date: Immediate

    How much to cut down and remove our tree in front garden.

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    13 Mar

    Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

    Hereford - HR4

    Enquiry from: Stephen M

    Start Date: Immediate

    Initially general gardening once a fortnight: pruning weeding etc.

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