Yes, it is possible to insulate a shed. You might want to do this if you’re planning on working in it during the winter. A professional will be able to help you find an insulated shed or advise you on how to insulate a shed that you already have. Always seek professional advise first before attempting to do this yourself!
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How much do Landscaper services cost?
How much do Landscapers cost? Prices for Landscapers in 2024 can vary depending on the type of work that you want to have performed in your home.
If you’ve decided to hire a landscaping professional for your outdoor area, you’ll probably be wondering how much it’s going to cost so you can start planning. A landscape garden serves a wide range of purposes from beautification of your surrounding and building to serving as a perfect spot for family and friends’ get-togethers and to brighten up one’s life. However, we must also note that the landscaping does not come cheap. In order to make it look great and send a clear message, there’s need for an effective and careful planning as well as consideration which perfectly combines both beauty and utility (as not every landscaping idea works perfectly for every house). So, just how much do landscapers charge?
Just like most home improvement projects, the price of charged by landscapers is influenced by a wide array of factors. These factors include the scope of the project, the size of the landscape, the type of material and size of your patio, the cost of the plants and mulches, the professional daily or hourly rate as well as the unique treatment of the aesthetics of planting.
In general, landscapers can charge as little as a price ranging from £15 to £20 and £45 per hour greatly influenced by the location as well as the landscaping services required. As a daily rate, professional landscapers tend to charge about £140 to £200 per day. However, it should be noted that the major factors influencing the price that a landscaper will charge is based on the area you live in as well as the size of your garden. For instance, if you live in an area with higher demands like London, you can expect to be charged a lot more than anywhere else.
The table reveals the sorts of work that Landscapers commonly do and also the typical cost range of these projects. Some jobs take longer to finish than others so prices do differ by task.
View our Landscaper cost guide View our Landscaper adviceThe average price
of a Landscaper is:
£2,110
Landscaper job | Landscaper cost in 2024 |
---|---|
Wooden fencing | £360-£2,247 |
Landscaping | £963-£9,009 |
Garden maintenance and upkeep | £116-£2,231 |
Wooden decking | £765-£4,718 |
Artificial Grass | £1,536-£2,878 |
Garden shed | £528-£1,740 |
Garden lighting | £320-£480 |
Driveway repair | £280-£7,412 |
Lawn Care | £112-£2,225 |
Landscaper service qualifications and accreditations
Landscapers credentials as well as certification's: Getting the appropriate training and also mastering just how to do your profession is key for any kind of tradesperson including Landscaper s. Review the profile page of each Landscaper you are thinking about to see what qualification they hold and what trade associations they belong to. Some trade associations that Landscapers might possibly be a member of include: HomePro, Federation of Master Builders, The Consumer Protection Guarantee. Equally Landscapers might even have the following accreditations: Chartered Institute of Building, Lantra Insurance for Landscapers: Any individual that works in your home, including Landscapers, ought to have valid public liability insurance, which protects you the homeowner as well as also the Landscaper should regrettably anything go wrong while they are doing the work. Planning permission for Landscapers A lot of the jobs that a Landscaper will certainly do for you will not require planning permission unless its a listed building. Definitely discuss with the Landscaper if planning permission would certainly be required for the job you are doing, they can advise the actions that require to be taken.
Services offered by Landscaper
Before we get started, it’s important to consider the definitions of some key terms in landscaping. First and foremost, a landscape is a word that’s not only used to qualify a beautiful scenery, but also stands for great historical records of natural features created by human activities over time. Meanwhile, a landscape gardening is basically the art of setting out grounds or planting of ornamental plants so that a picturesque effect is created. In other words, it can be seen as the beautification or decoration of a portion of land to generate a naturalistic effect in a limited space. However, it should also be noted that landscape gardening meant to beautify places, but also important and very functional as our surroundings make a whole lot of contribution to the quality of our lives. So, who is a landscaper?
Well, we have two types of landscapers: the landscape architect whose job is to design a landscape and a landscape builder whose job is to do the physical requirements of creating a landscape. Both types are very interrelated such that landscape architects can also be landscape builders or have one or more of the other types in same team (as most landscaping building projects will be supervised by a landscape architect).
More often than not, a landscaper is usually confused with a gardener but these are two separate professions. As it’s the job of a gardener to come in and maintain the landscape garden once the landscape has successfully built the outdoor area. In other words, it’s part of a gardener’s services to prune plants, mow the lawns, do the weeding, fertilize your soil and much more. It’s not their job to construct a large retaining wall or a gazebo. And you can also be sure they won’t appear with a backhoe ready to sculpt your landscape. Overall, deciding who to choose between a gardener and a landscape depends on the type or scope of work that’s required.
Landscaper FAQs
- Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
- Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
- Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
- Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
- Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
- Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
- Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
- Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
- Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
- Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
- Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
- Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
- Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
- Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
- Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
- Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
- Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
- Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Do I Need A Gardener Or Landscaper?
This is a question that’s often asked by most homeowners across the globe. While it’s true that both gardener and landscaper can make your garden a lot more beautiful and pleasing to the eye, it’s also crucial to know the significant difference between the two professions.
So who is a landscaper? We have two types of landscapers: the landscape architect whose job is to design a landscape and a landscape builder whose job is to do the physical requirements of creating a landscape. Both types are very interrelated such that landscape architects can also be landscape builders or have one or more of the other type in same team (as most landscaping building projects will be supervised by a landscape architect).
Now the main difference between a landscaper and a gardener is the type or scope of work they’re qualified to undertake. Generally, landscapers require just one or more types of trade licences to work, meanwhile a gardener may or may not need a trade licence. So who is a gardener?
It’s the job of a gardener to come in and maintain the landscape garden once the landscape has successfully built the outdoor area. In other words, it’s part of a gardener’s services to prune plants, mow the lawns, do the weeding, fertilize your soil and much more. It’s not their job to construct a large retaining wall or a gazebo. And you can also be sure they won’t appear with a backhoe ready to sculpt your landscape.
Overall, deciding who to choose between a gardener and a landscape depends on the type or scope of work that’s required. With the aforementioned differences, you should be able to easily determine who to call when in need of a landscaping or gardening service.
- Plan your shed base
You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have:
- A concrete base laid on hardcore
- Concrete slabs on sharp sand
- Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle
- An interlocking plastic system
- Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together.
- Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing.
- Put up the shed walls
- Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together.
- Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place.
- Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way.
- Fit the roof
- If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in.
- Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end.
- Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals.
- Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails.
- Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails.
- Add the shed windows
- Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing.
- From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill.
- Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails.
- Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists. And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.
- Tongue and groove timber boards
- Boards for the ledges and braces, at least 20mm thick
- Nails
- Hammer
- Saws, including a circular saw
- Chisel
- Mallet
- Cut your boards to size If you can’t buy boards at the right height and width for your door, cut the boards to length using a circular saw. Don’t forget to sand and treat any cut ends with timber preservative. Lay out the boards in the best arrangement for your shed door, with the inside of the door facing up.
- Arrange the ledges and braces On most shed doors, you’ll probably need 3 boards across the back of the door to form the ledges. The ledges keep the door straight and keep the boards of the door together. The braces are the parts of the door that slope down to form a ‘Z’ shape between the ledges. Ensure that the braces are sloped up from the bottom and middle hinge to stop the door from sagging as the timber expands and contracts in the weather. Once you’re happy with the arrangement, mark the spots on the boards where they will meet and cut out of the housings using a chisel and mallet.
- Put the door together Use clamps to pull the boards together and hold the ledges and braces in place. Nail from the front of the door through the boards and ledges to fix them. Secure the ledges and braces with screws; you may want to pre-drill and countersink holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Remember to treat them with preservative if you do.
- Fix the shed door hinges Make sure you measure carefully before attaching the hinges, ensuring you know where the pin sits in relation to where the door opens.
- Treat the door and add locks and handles Apply some wood oil, like linseed or teak oil, to help prevent water damage. Then add locks or handles to your shed to help keep it secure. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, there are plenty of specialists that will be able to make a shed door for you, or even put up an entire shed.
Laying a lawn is a task that’s best left to the professionals especially if you don’t know what you’re doing. However, if you can follow a simple logical process, you’ll save yourself a lot of headache – simply start from the edge and work inwards. If you’re looking to lay your lawn by yourself, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to consider the processes involved in lawn installation in order to ensure your project turns out a success. Let’s take a look!
Firstly, the tools you’re going to need to lay your lawn includes the following – sturdy boots, gardening gloves (should be thick), wheel barrow, garden fork or rotovator, landscaping rake, laying boards, knife or edge trimmer, hosepipe and broom.
- Start from the outside edge. Install the initial strips horizontally overlapping the boundary a bit (trim the back once done). Press down carefully to make sure there’s a good contact with the soil (make sure not to squash the lawn).
- Proceed to lay the adjacent pieces till the first row of the lawn along the entire edge is completed.
- Continue with the next row. If there’s a need to stand on the laid turf, simply make use of a plank so as to avoid squashing or denting the turf. It’s important to ensure the successive rows are staggered to prevent the short edges from lining up.
- Proceed by butting and pushing the edges to create a tight joint (make sure the turf is not stretched).
- Use a wood saw or sharp serrated knife to trim any untidy edges. Remember to make use of a plank to ensure you do not walk directly on the turf.
- Water the newly installed turf adequately to ensure the water penetrates the soil. However, do not turn it into a mud bath.
First and foremost, to save your time and money when it comes to lawn renovation, there’s a huge need to figure out why the lawn isn’t doing well in the first place. A lot of times, when changes are made to the basic lawn care practices, cultural practices or site conditions, any need for a renovation would be thrown out the window as the lawn would be given a new life with good health and vigour. However, if you feel renovation is the best option for your lawn, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to consider the best time to start a lawn renovation to help put you on the right path. Let’s take a look!
There are two times during the year that are most suitable for lawn renovation. Firstly, the best time for renovation of a lawn is usually from mid-August to mid-September. Secondly, another great time to achieve this goal is normally during early spring as the lawn is starting to turn green and grow.
So, when do you consider lawn renovation?
- When the quality of the lawn is simply poor and unacceptable.
- During the introduction of lower maintenance turf varieties into an existing lawn.
- When 30% to 50% of the lawn is dead or is experiencing sparse growth which may be due to several factors like drought and heat, low soil fertility, insect damage, moderate soil compaction and more.
- When the lawn is soft and spongy will walking across. Plus, if it also responds terribly to the application of fertilizer and water.
- When grassy weeds or broad-leaved weeds covers about 30 to 40 percent of the lawn area with insufficient turf cover to fill in the bare areas once the weed removal is done.
Being a strong and durable product requiring little maintenance and expected to last over 2 decades, it’s little wonder resin is now a popular material amongst homeowners in the UK to build their driveways. However, there’s always the issue of the driveway fading, cracking or even becoming worn and tired. So is it possible to repair resin driveways? The answer is yes, a resin driveway can be repaired, however the best approach to use largely depends on the issue being faced. As a confident DIYer it’ll be very easy to do, but if you lack the confidence then calling in a professional for help would be a better option. So let’s take a look at how you can repair your resin driveways.
For cracks, the best reparation approach would be to chisel it out. Once done, then you can proceed to breaking the stones to form a rough edge. It’s important to make sure that the matrix of the stone remains unaffected. Make a new mixture of resin bound stone and pack it in tightly to the gap. While doing this, we’ll recommend making use of a plastic trowel to avoid burnishing. This fresh mixture will then create a smooth and perfect surface by interlocking with the edges. You can follow similar procedure for patches but these are larger holes or damages than cracks and as the name suggests are mostly likely to remain noticeable but will prevent further crumbling of your resin driveway.
For homeowners, who aren’t so keen about the patch repairs, you can opt for an overlay especially in the event whereby the majority of the surface has failed. Although many usually shy away from this approach because of the perceived high expenses, but the fact is that the approach is actually cost effective as you won’t have the need to spend more money in the long run.
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